BSA Bantam 'Competition' Model

I always liked the look of the BSA Bantam Competition model and thought it might be an interesting project to build.
However after searching for an unrestored one without any luck, with winter approaching and nothing in the workshop to fiddle with, I decided to do the next best thing and build a 'replica'. I sourced a standard engine, frame wheels and tank locally from an abandoned project, already resprayed Mist Green, what luck!
A pair of aluminium mudguards (I am no purist), a short length of hex bar (I will explain later!), a gasket set, seals and other oddments from a trip to Newark Autojumble.
A local bearing supplier for engine, gearbox and wheel bearings and over the next few months a pair of BSA C11 footrests, a new stop/tail light and a pair of high level seat brackets (both left handed!) from Ebay.


Initial 'mock up' for V5 purposes.
No electrics in place, one of the two 'left handed' seat bracket's has been disassembled and rebuilt as a right handed one.
The engine has been stripped and rebuilt with new bearings and seals.


Wiring loom made and in place. New brake, clutch and throttle cables fitted.

Now for that hex bar I mentioned earlier. The Competion model has raised footrests, to acheive this I got hold of some C11 footrests which have a hex mounting hole, I think you are ahead of me here! some washers were made out of 1/8" steel, drilled and a hex hole filed in them (there must be an easier way), then welded to the frame.
The hex bar was machined at the ends and had threads cut, slid through the now hex shaped frame mounting, pegs on, washers and nuts, jobs a good un!


Close up showing horn, zenor diode, mounted in hand made heatsink (I knew that block of aluminium would come in handy), solid state rectifier and kill switch.


Finished project, ready for MOT.

The downpipe was made by a local stainless steel fabricators, supplied polished.
I managed to squeeze a small 12v battery inside the tool box to retain that 'direct electrics' look.
To rewire the generator for 12v, remove the earth and feed both wires direct to solid state rectifier,connect the negative from the rectifier to the pole of the 12v zenor diode and positive from the rectifier to earth.Click here to see wiring diagram the Remember the Bantam has a separate winding for the ignition so no need to change anything here!